Dining review: Davis' Mustard Seed plays it safe

In a town with a major university and a relatively sophisticated, well-traveled populace, Davis has few appealing options for fine dining.

The Mustard Seed has endured and thrived since it opened in 1984. People love the patio in summer and spring, and they ask for tables inside near the fireplace when the weather turns wintry.

The restaurant has always showcased top- quality ingredients with a straightforward approach to cooking, and a menu that changes with the seasons.

Mustard Seed tends to fall short in what it does with those ingredients. It's straightforward to a fault – not fun enough, not cheeky enough and not interesting enough to make us love it – or even remember it.

Mustard Seed is locked in the most competitive restaurant category in the region, considering its price point and style of cooking. It's up against Waterboy, Mulvaney's, Ella, Ambience, Taste and Hawks – restaurants that distinguish themselves with professional-caliber service and a creative bent in the kitchen. They turn out food that not only satisfies but also inspires.